Line 6 DL4 Switch problem, did I wreck my board?

[Giggles]

Hello everybody, I have a problem with my DL4. The 1st footswitch stopped working, so I bought replacement switches and since they came in a bag of 5, I replaced all four of them. The 1st switch is now operating correctly, but now the 4th switch is not working, even though it was completely fine before.
I think I might have damaged the electrical component R32 on the circuit board when I was taking off the old switches. I tested it with a multimeter and there is no current flowing through it. I don't know anything about circuit boards, I was just following a youtube video... but would I be correct in saying that this R32 provides power to the 4th switch? I have tested similar components beside the other switches and they seem ok.





It is only my second time ever using a soldering iron, I didn't do the tidiest job, but I checked with a multimeter and my solders appear to be ok. However, as you can see in the pictures I had a bit of a problem trying to get the original switches off. I had no solder braid/vac so I had to use pliers:



Here is a pic of the back, switch 4 on the left, switch 1 on the right:



That last pic shows the first switch I tried to remove. As you can see, I made a bit of a balls of it, took too much off but it seems to work fine. I didn't bother adding anymore solder where it came off, because the video said that only the 2 parts on the left of each switch were needed. Could that gap I left be affecting that 4th switch down the line?



Appreciate any info from anybody who has knowledge in this kind of stuff, because I clearly don't 
I can take any extra pictures if necessary. It's difficult to get a proper clear shot of that R32 component with my phone, but even to the naked eye it seems a little bit scuffed. And the fact that the multimeter indicates that there is a problem there... well that has to be it? And  if that is the problem, what the fuck do I do now?

[Juggz]

You can get electrical solder for a couple of euro in every hardware or electrical shop in the country. Get some solder and make sure every connection is properly soldered before you start pulling out chips.

[Giggles]

I've tested all my solders with a multimeter and they appear fine.

There is no current running through that R32 resistor though, and my mate who's handy with electronics says that's what's providing power to the 4th switch. He says he could replace it, once he knows what the value of that resistor is supposed to be.

[Juggz]

One terminal is power into that resistor, is it getting power in the first place?

[moose]

I can check the value and voltages for ya tomorrow.

[Giggles]

One terminal is power into that resistor, is it getting power in the first place?

Which terminal do you mean? I'm not sure if there is power going into R32, but there is power going to the resistors around it.
I added solder to the parts on switch 1 that were burnt off, but the multimeter shows no current running through them, so I may have messed up the pads.. The video I watched said that the 2 pads on the right weren't neceasary to solder to, but could they be preventing power from being sent to R32?
Switches 1, 2 and 3 are working perfectly though.... so I'm kind of in a better position than I was before I started messing with it. I don't use the 4th switch that often, but it would be nice to get it working again!

I can check the value and voltages for ya tomorrow.

Nice one, that would be great thanks.

[moose]

Can't tell anything from your pics btw but will be able to tell anything you've done wrong once I open up one of the ones I have here. Need to repair one so will be opening it anyhow. Really looks like you've fucked a connection so will probably have to run a jumper wire. I'll show ya where that goes too. Next time practice on something you don't care about before going into something as expensive as this

[moose]

Right it looks like you've destroyed a trace or two coming from R29, one that that goes to R32 and one goes somewhere else. If you look to the left of the print of SW1 you'll see where I'm talking about. Can you check continuity between those two resistors for starters? The DL4 I have open here is a later revision so its not the same pcb layout.  I could possibly sort this for you but no guarantees as they have so many things that can go wrong with them. Fixing one thing may reveal another issue etc.

[Giggles]

Just checked there, yep there is current flowing from R29 to R32.